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Like every Indian parent, My mother also had this strong wish to go to Sangam (the place where three rivers Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati meet) and take a holy dip there and like every Indian household the responsibility to fulfil this wish comes to the younger child (that’s me :P). For a long, I couldn’t take out time due to some of my busy schedule (Yeah, that’s right, I used to be very busy:P). But this time I took the responsibility to take my cutie (mom) to PrayagRaj (formerly Allahabad) for Sangam Dip. As we all know (or some might not) PrayagRaj is among one of the most ancient cities of the world and Sangam dip is one of the rituals in Hindu religion just like everyone must do kumbh snan once in their life.

Plan of journey

I checked my schedule to finalize vacation dates and tried to book the tickets. By God’s grace, I got two confirmed tickets. I tried to make all arrangements, like booking hotels or getting in touch with some friends of mine who live there, read some blogs about the specialty of the place, measuring the distances, and last but not the least, budget plan. Finally, we were set to go! 🙂

Starting of the journey.

Since the train was scheduled to depart very early in the morning, Mom made some snacks for the journey. Due to the outbreak of the coronavirus, Mom was reluctant to take or consume any outside food or water.

The train (Seemanchal Express) that was to take me to PrayagRaj arrived. Of course, we didn’t get the window seat or lower berth because of Tatkal booking. The window seat which one uncle got showed his initial attitude, but somehow, I managed to chill up my mom because he was very rude. In my seat compartment, one lady was there, two other people were in the upper berth, most of the time they stayed in the upper seat. The condition was very bad, washrooms were stinky, and we were hearing some conversations, people from many communities were huddled together. Some of them were rude, some of them were polite, some of them was quiet and shy. It was obvious that people were continuously laughing and using foul language as it was sleeper class. After all this, it was a peaceful and a mesmerizing journey as it departed to Allahabad junction on time.

After taking some rest in the station platform I informed to my elder brother about the journey. He gave me a contact of one of the Sri Sri’s devotee whose mother is living in Allahpur. We had two option to stay, either we could stay in Hotels or at Suman Villa (Devotee’s House). My mother was a bit hesitating to stay in other’s house, so I started searching for some hotels near the station with the help of an e-rickshaw driver who was quite supportive, because he might be getting some commission from the hotel manager. While doing this I was waiting for some time for the reply or call by my brother’s friend, she is the devotee and an Art of Living teacher now and at that time she was busy with her classes and I was aware of the dedication of any Art of Living teacher with their discipline, so I just tried to visit some hotel to find cheaper non-AC rooms but all of them were 1500+. I searched OYO, it was showing 500-600. But the e-rickshaw driver was not taking me there (because of the commission). Finally, I got the call from her, she gave me the address and I was in my way to reach there. Somehow, we reached there and met to Aunt, her name is Suman Srivastava.She is a Science and Maths teacher at high school, she is very polite and she used to live alone in her home. She already had experienced with all kind of guests, all AOL friends used to stay during Kumbh(last year). We had a small conversation and plan sharing, then she showed her guest room in which we were going to stay. We freshened up and took a cup of tea together and both of us shared our AOL journey, what her daughter and son were doing, what I and my brother are doing, etc.

I and my mom both were very excited for Sangam Dip. She was so excited that she even wanted to take a dip in the night as well, but it was 9.00 PM so she didn’t take bath not because of cold but because Holy Mother Ganga might be sleeping in the night. So we just wanted to explore the Mela and the Ghat. It was 3.2 km away from Suman Villa (where we were staying), so we went via walking with the help of Google Maps. Though no network was working after 2 km, we reached the bank of rivers, we saw the different colours of water and two different flow of water, Holy Mother Ganga’s water was green, colder and its flow was higher than Yamuna ji’s flow. We walked 1 km on the bank of Yamunaji and Gangaji. We poured one jar of Holy water of Mother Ganga and came back to Suman Villa via walking.

Sangam the meeting point of Three Rivers(Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati). Gangaji’s and Yamunaji’s water were visible but it was very difficult to find the meeting point of Sarswati as compare to the two big rivers. Then we heard from some people that the Sarswati river is completely dried

As we were already aware of morning crowd, so we planned that we will wake up by 4:45 AM and leave for Sangam snan to avoid the crowd. Though it was a good decision to wake up early the first task was to sleep early. I was about to sleep but I thought to complete my last episode of any current series on Netflix, which I use to do very religiously with full focus while the same happened with my mom as she was also trying to sleep, but neither she nor I slept before 1:30 AM. But somehow we woke up by 4.30 AM and went straight forward to Sangam Ghat (Spotted the Place in the evening). We saw the crowd was more than expected. This crowd was of those people who have come one day before the Magh Poornima, so lots of people were coming for it. Somehow, we found a place of some less crowd near the bank of Ganga. Both of us (mother and I) decided to take a bath one by one. Mom did all the rituals and pooja of the river Ganga. Many pilgrims were shivering and taking a bath on the name of “Har-Har Gange”, “Jai Ganga Maiya”. After Ganga bath, we headed towards Bade Hanuman Ji. On the way to the bade Hanuman Ji temple, there were lots of beggars, we distributed 200 rupees among them.

Bade Hanuman Ji

Bade Hanuman Ji is also known as Lete Hanuman Ji. The statue of 10-12 feet is lying on down on floor of a basement, where devotees enter from one way from ground floor and enter in basement and cross from one side of Lete Hanuman Ji. Another side is also open for another line of devotees from the same side and finally after darshan and offering flower, vermilion, coconut & ghee ladoo, devotees exit straight by climbing few stairs for ground floor. There was a big hall beside the temple where lots of devotees were reciting the Hanuman Chalisa, Ram Doha etc.

We were following an old woman from Sangam Ghat, she was also coming with us for Bade Hanuman Ji Darshan, I was carrying her luggage. She had come earlierso she was able to guide us. While travelling, she told us about her family tradition of Kalpwas.

Kalpwas (Spending a month on the bank of Ganga)

I haven’t heard or read any fascinating or ancient stories about doing this, I may add later on. As of now, I am describing what I saw there. About millions of people live there on the bank of Sangam, it’s like another city on the bank of Ganga. Those who live one side of Ganga, go another side for Kalpwas and opposite side people come this (city side) of Ganga. Entire arrangements (stay, food and cleanliness) managed by U.P. government initiated from Yogi Government from last Kumbh Mela. Lifestyle of aKalpwasi pilgrim is they stay, eat, worship and sleep on the bank itself, for washroom(government has dropped many portable toilets which are cleaned on a daily basis, all pilgrims cook their food by their own, mainly they cook khichdi and maximum they eat twice a day and sleep with single blanket in Jan-Feb cold weather. They follow these rules religiously for one month starting from Amavashya Night to Magh Purnima Day, and they do it for 12 years.

Nag Vasuki Temple

I don’t know much ancient history, you can find it on Wikipedia, I will describe here what I saw there. It is inside the city near Prayag ghat. You will go through 2-3 km narrow streets, at a dead-end, there will be small entry gate. The left side of before entry gate, there is Bhism Pitamah Temple where Bhism Pitamah statue is lying on small arrows supporting from the ground, this statue was about 15-17 feet long. Inside Nag Vasuki temple, there was a very ancient temple of Naag Vasuki and two old trees one was of Pipal(Ficus religiosa) and another was Neem(Azadirachta indica), one side of temple had open view of Ganga because this was built on the bank of Ganga on some altitude, I saw lots of south Indian Pilgrims had come to visit this place, so surely there would be any connection with south Indian temple or mention in south Indian mythology.

This place is very famous. This was the birthplace of Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru, Shrimati Indira Gandhi and I believe of Shri Rajiv Gandhi and Sanjay Gandhi as well (not sure though).Later this two-storey building was converted into a museum and is currently being maintained by UP Government. Anand Bhavan has an entry fee of INR 30/- and INR 70/- rupees (for Indian tourists), 200/- rupees(for foreigners). 

On Ground Floor, It has Shri Motilal Nehru‘s (Father of Chachu Nehru) Study Room, Bedroom, Dressing Room & Drawing Room and Shri Mati Swarup Rani‘s (Mother of Chacha Nehru) living room and Dining Hall, Pantry and Marriage place of Shri Mati Indira Gandhi (Daughter) and Feroze Gandhi(Son-in-law of Nehru). All rooms have been covered with transparent glasses, so visitors can only look from outside. Besides that, ground floor also had an amphitheatre, guest rooms, beautiful gardens and newly built Tara Mandal (A show of universe on spherical screen, lots of school students come for this.)

On the first floor, there were six rooms, three on the right side, the First room was Relic Room, Collection of rare mementoes of the Nehru Family. Second was Jawaharlal Nehru’s study-cum bedroom and the last one was Jawaharlal Nehru’s dressing room. The next three were on another side, and in between these six, there was open space, where sunlight was hitting all the time. Fourth room was Congress Working (Committee room) in former days, fifth was Gandhiji’s Room where he often stayed. Sixth and the last was Indira Priyadarshani’s Room.

There was one more building along with Anand Bhavan, which had the antiques related to Shrimati Indira Gandhi. There were around 100+ photographs with lots of memories of Indira Gandhi, some photographs were even 10 feet tall. I think photos were placed chronologically, The photos section ended with a heart burning picture related to the assassination of Shrimati Indira Gandhi, I felt like crying. It was the first time I saw any photo-graphical Biography with real photos. I think she struggled a lot after Gandhiji and Nehruji. I thought to buy all the books put on a show, written by Nehruji (His Biography, The Discovery of India, Glimpses of World History). I believe UPSC aspirants have to read all these so thick books. I thought to buy those books but then I found them online on 26% discount (Hurray) with free home delivery so………:p

This is one of the best parts of Ganga Darshan. Some visitors use this for boating purpose only, Some pilgrims go to the mid of the river at the meeting point of two rivers and take Holy Sangam Dip. Meanwhile boating you can take interest in cold air, some ducks fly near you, you can offer some edible to them. Before boarding the boat, my Mom was scared of it. She had completely denied to me after many attempts by me and boating person, we pursuaded her to board the boat so we board finally. My mom took some flowers and lamplight(Deepak) and I bought some food for fishes and ducks which I use to throw in the air and some duck used to fly to catch that in the air only. And they use to fight in water for catching competition. One of the duck sat on the roof of the boat and I was offering her from my hand directly. This was a very precious moment for me. After 20 min of boating our boat parked at mid of the river, there were already many pre-arrangements. I, my Mom and one more passenger took bath there. The flow and temperature of the water were higher and colder than the bank. We haven’t bought our clothes this time, so we kept working wetted cloths. After a sweet bath, our boat started moving towards the bank. My mom was ultimate happy as she was the first person from our Sahu family who took Sangam Dip. While returning, she was singing lots of bhajans and holding Lalla(child statute of Krishnaji).

Akshay Vat

 Akshayavat or Akshay Vat is a sacred fig tree mentioned in Hindu mythology. According to a legend, once the sage Markandeya asked Lord Narayana to show him a specimen of the divine power. Narayana flooded the entire world for a moment, during which only the Akshayavat could be seen above the water level.

 

Gangaji’s Arti is very famous in all India, whoever visits Gangas in any place Haridwar, Risikesh, Varanashi or Prayag, they must attend Gangaji’s arti. 

I have seen Gangaji’s Arti in Varanashi as well as in Prayagraj. I don’t know what is the history of Gangaji’s arti but some people say that Prayagraj has copied this ritual from Varanasi. Gangaji’s Arti is one of the fascinating and attractive rituals, it happens in the evening time. Gangaghat Managers organize these rituals. It starts before the sunset and it is completed just after 5-10 min of sunset. 4-5 Panda stand on a wooden platform fixed on Ganga’s bank. They first chant some mantra and do avahan and all. Then light all lamps, they hold different sizes of lamps. It looks very fascinating when they swing it from left to right or right to left or in a circle. The flames of all lamps keep twinkling and burning inflow of air. After Arti, some local classical singers will start singing Bhajans etc. Some people will stay to sing along with them and others will leave as soon as possible.

I, my mom and Suman aunt (whom we have stayed for one night and one day) attended this Arti. The managers were very strict they were not allowed to enter any pilgrimage in an enclosed area by them, they have reserved it for some devotees and mainly Trustees. If anyone brings slipper or shoes inside the enclosed area, they use to throw them out with their belongings from the enclosed area.

Evening Dinner with Aunt

 Now 3-4 hours were left to say bye-bye to aunt, but we wanted to spend more time with her and buy something for her but whatever we could buy she can have her own, she lives in prayagraj so we thought to have dinner together. Aunt was telling that she can cook, but my mom insisted her that you cook daily, let’s eat outside this time, then will see mela also. Then all of us went to nearby Dhaba and ordered some desi food(Allu kulcha, pudi sabji, parathe, gulabjamun etc.). While we were eating one of the beggars come and asked for food.We had extra Allu paratha so we offered to her. We were just about to finish our food another old saint came for food, then I just offered him 1 palate paratha what have taken extra, then that saint kept the paratha in his box and asked for rice and daal.The Dhaba manager told me, Sir, we will give them rice, you can leave. But I said that I would offer him with my hand then I did so. Just before leaving from Dhaba, one very poor person came to my mom and asked for blanket, she got confused what to do. She directly can avoid his requirement, blankets were costly, so my mom just offered 100/- and said you can buy the blanket on your own. I can help this much only. Then finally, we left that place and directly reached to Suman Villa home.

Finally leaving from Allahabad Humsafar Express

Now the time had come to say goodbye !!